On the road
Traffic lights have two red lights; presumably to allow for a broken bulb.
Cats eyes (the studs in the road) are four times the size of European ones. They really do encourage lane discipline as nobody wants to drive over them.
Speed bumps (known here as suspension breakers) are like mini mountains and often quite well concealed. I think that these account for the almost complete absence of low slung sports cars.
Speed cameras are everywhere. On the edge of town they are just before traffic lights, at the lights and again 100 metres later. Speed up to almost catch the lights on green and you can get three fines in 20 seconds.

In the shops
Pharmacies will often deliver medicines at trivial cost. They open seven days a week and late in the evening, there seems to be one in every street competing strongly on price. Not many medicines seem to need prescriptions. Judging from the number of pharmacies and the queues in some it is safe to assume that Brazilians really like medicine.
Supermarkets always have someone at the till to put your shopping into bags. Often they will also push the trolley to the car. Usually there is free coffee (near the coffee shelves) and often also cheese, salami and other promoted products.
Tradesmen have little shops and can fix watches, phones, printers, TVs, washing machines, toasters and all the things Europeans tend to throw away when they break after the guarantee period finishes. You can buy the exact number of screws you need at the screw shop. It can be cheaper to get a dress made to measure than buy a known brand.

Apartment blocks
Security is paramount and almost all the buildings in middle class areas have 24 hour guards and high walls. Nobody gets in or out without the guard’s permission.
Shared facilities are common here. Flavia’s apartment, like mine in Spain, is around 30 years old and has much more land than more modern blocks. The neighbours share a basketball court, two barbecue areas, pool and changing rooms, beach volleyball (which is a bit derelict) and a room for parties and meetings. The underground garage has an area for storing bikes and a compressor for tyres and lilos. Newer buildings often have no land at all but the ground and first floors have barbecues, party rooms, gymnasium, sauna etc.
Apartment sizes are much larger than in Europe. 120 square metres is small and 150 to 200 is very common. Penthouses are as large as 600. There are some smaller apartments but not many.
Maids room and service area and kitchen. Often take up to 50 metres (my apartment in Spain is 75 metres) They all have a large cupboard without windows called the maid’s room. Even a London estate agent would be too embarrassed to call it a bedroom. There is a tiny bathroom with a shower over the lavatory. There is also a large scullery with laundry sink, washing machine, clothes line tumble dryer etc. Nobody I have met has a resident maid and it does strike me as a terrible waste of space.
A chimney over a metre square goes up the centre of the buildings and internal bathrooms have windows into the chimney. Some people have also put in windows from the kitchen. This can add up to a very interesting combination of sounds and smells wafting between apartments. The bathroom door must always be kept closed!
Dogs and cats are allowed but their feet must not touch communal areas. They have to be carried from the apartment front door to the street. This accounts for the large numbers of toy Poodles and absence of Great Danes. The Brazilian pet owners are much better than Europeans at clearing up the mess their dogs make on the pavements.

Bureaucracy
It is terrible! A bit like Spain 20 years ago (and England in 10 years’ time?). So far I have not had much to do with it but recently read that it takes 50 pieces of paper to start a new business and you should allow six months for the formalities. According to a TV program this week many legal processes are still open 20 years after starting

Food
Staples are rice and beans. Flavia says that it is correct to serve rice at any meal unless pasta is served. I think I would add that it is probably also correct to eat beans whenever rice is served unless fish is part of the dish. Bread is mostly eaten for breakfast in little french rolls. If you can afford it it is with butter cheese and ham. Plenty of potatoes are sold but french fries are not often served in restaurants. My roast potatoes (with beef and yorkshire pudding) went down very well.
Restaurants In previous posts I have talked about self service restaurants which I love. Mostly these are open for lunch only. In the evenings they become conventional restaurants or cafe/bars. A meal is often three times the price we pay for lunch for two and is big enough for three or even four people. This is very restricting when you are a couple. If there are more people you have to all agree on what to eat. Smaller portions are often available but it is not cheaper to have two small portions than one mega-meal

That is it for this week. sorry, no pics as I could not think of much that would go with this article. We have just booked two weeks vacation in Salvador, Bahia starting on 31st May. This is a very interesting city, the third biggest in Brazil with wonderful beaches all around and beaten for life, music and art only by Rio.

Manioc in the market

It is also called cassava, mandioca, cassava or, in Brazil aipim. It is a staple food here and is incredibly versatile. In London is is available in the areas where there are people of West Indian or African descent. I have often seen it but not did know what it was or how to cook it. Maybe i can start a new foodie fashion in the UK.

The British eat cassava without knowing it as it is used to make both arrowroot (for thickening sauces) and the milk pudding tapioca.

The manioc plant

Manioc has a very high starch and calorie content but is not rich in vitamins. It is gluten free which is a major advantage as so many people seem to have allergies. In Brazil every food label is marked as either containing gluten or not containing gluten. It is very easily digestible. Depending on the country it is grown and the particular strain of the plant there can be high levels of cyanide in manioc and then it needs careful handling. The leaves cannot be eaten raw due to the presence of cyanide but they are a good source of protein. I have not heard of Brazilians eating the leaves.

Fried The boiled chunks are dropped into hot fat for a couple of minutes.
There are many ways of preparing manioc and these are some of the ways I have eaten it here:

Boiled After peeling and cutting into chunks around five to ten centimeters long it is boiled for around 20 minutes and served much like boiled potato. Tough internal strands running the length of the root must be removed.

Mashed Take the boiled potato above and mash it. It is very good combined with mashed potato.

Manioc cake

Farofa Is lightly roasted coarse flour. It is sold already prepared and looks similar to bread crumbs. It is added to all sorts of meat and bean dishes. As street food, cooked kebabs are dipped in a yoghourt dressing and then farofa sprinkled over.

Flour It is used as as a thickener for soups and sauces.

Bread I have not tasted it yet but it looks good.

Bolos de Aipim are cakes and are guaranteed to send Flavia into ecstasy.

So if anyone reading this has any recipes or favourite dishes please tell us about it.

On Saturday morning we went to the city centre to visit the Cathedral which did not impress me at all.  It looks like a giant command module of an Apollo space craft. Star Trek fans will know what I mean when I say that it comes from the Klingon school of architecture.  The inside was better but I found the place very depressing. In fact I preferred the distorted reflection of the cathedral on a neighbouring office block.

We then took the Santa Teresa Tram to the same area that we had lunch yesterday.  It is probably as near to a favela that a tourist can go in safety. This was a wonderful ride and is not to be missed. Do not be put off by the tram’s dilapidated appearance and the poverty of some of the passengers (I kept a close grip on my valuables). This is daily transport for many people and is not a tourist attraction. The European Health and safety people would have a nightmare with the open sides, overloading and passengers jumping on and off the moving tram.

The tram is supposed to be limited to 32 people; in spite of going considerably over this number the schedule of a tram every 30 minutes means that there can be long queues.

A couple of hours was spent wandering around various cultural  centres and a stroll around the Rua do Ouvidor area where we had a drink and listened to a samba band playing in the street. Yet again I was struck by the fact that hardly anyone seems to dance. The customers of half a dozen bars listened to the music,  eating and drinking while the shoeshine boys and other hustlers looked for an opportunity to earn a few Reais.

Around 4pm Rafael and his girlfriend Claudia picked us up and we went for lunch in Bar Lagoa restaurant overlooking the lake Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas. Three had perfectly cooked and very tender fillet mignon and Rafael went for the steak tartare. I do not object to eating the meat raw – even mixed with raw egg and other ingredients. What put me off is that the large plate arrived with nothing other than the tartare. It would have been much more appealing half the size but with some french fries and salad.  A couple of hours later we left having damaged our wallets severely.

After a rest and a change of  clothes we hit the Santo Scenarum, this time a different building very close to the one we went to on Thursday. We arrived at 21.30 and found that we had to pay $15 dollars admission at the weekend. Three drinks each and the bill for two came to $55 – we are moving in the fast lane.  In fact it was not that bad value.  This place was twice the gigantic size of the other branch. Two seven member tango bands rotated and there was a very large disco area. Someone said that there were 800 customers there and 180 staff. The decorations did not have the religious theme but were just as surreal.  The value for money was confirmed when we left at midnight and discovered a queue four deep stretching 500 metres.

At the bottom we went for a long walk along the Pista Cláudio Coutinho which is a small peninsula which doubles as a military base and a nature reserve. It appeared to be a circular route but the path stopped at the halfway point and we retraced our footsteps. It was very quiet and peaceful but with excelent security so we felt quite safe.

Rafael picked us up  in the afternoon and we explored some of the hills. We wandered around and he showed us all sorts of interesting places. On one of the hills we came across a lake surrounded by tropical jungle. A lot of these areas are protected as part of a National Park. Travelling around the city is not nearly as difficult as you would think as a lot of the hills have tunnels going through them more or less at sea level.

In the Santa Teresa area are a number of simple but very interesting restaurants offering food from the Bahía area. We had a very good lunch there. At first sight the prices looked a bit high but on enquiry the waiter agreed that a single portion might be enough for three. In fact the three of us could not eat it all and Flavia and I did not eat again that day. These portion sizes are fairly typical so do not be shy about ordering a single dish between several people. You can always order more if it is not enough.The problem is finding a dish that all of you want to eat.

We spent a quiet evening and had an early night.

The road was a dual carriage way for the first hour and then became two single lanes. There was often a third lane for overtaking, especially up hills. The last hour was dual, then triple carriageway.  The roads were all in pretty good condition. The modern comfortable bus was limited to 80 or 90 kph for the whole journey and mostly managed to keep to those speeds. It did help arriving in Rio in the evening after the peak traffic.

In the morning Rafael took us on a tour of Rio. It is a real advantage having a car, driver and guide with a detailed knowledge of the city.  First we went to Corcovado mountain and the statue of Christ the Redeemer which is 700 metres above Rio. We stopped at a couple of brilliant viewing points on the way up.  We drove almost to the top of the hill, parked and got

into small buses for the last climb of a hundred metres of hairpin bends. From there was a short walk, a couple of escalators and we were at the foot of the statue without even getting out of breath. There is also a funicular railway which is very useful if you do not have a car.

The views are breathtaking.  It was a hot sunny day and the city inland was covered in a light haze. This trip alone is worth a visit to Brazil.   Rio is full of very steep hills and so there are thousands of locations with fabulous views, soon you become a little blasé about what would be a traffic-stopping elsewhere. Rafael’s lounge faces the statue and a nearby favela an interesting combination of two of Rio’s signature sights.
Around 4 o’clock we had a self-service meal followed by a well-earned siesta.  In the evening we took a 20 minute taxi ride to the old city area full of bars and restaurants. We went to the Scenarium whch the Guardian rates as one of the best ten bars in the world.  It is a very strange place. It is not really a pub or bar or a restaurant or a nightclub or a disco or an antiques shop but a mixture of all of them. It looks like an ancient converted warehouse with two rooms the size of tennis courts on each of the three floors. In fact it used to be housing and each floor used to contain 12 apartments. A girl singer accompanied by keyboards and guitar was singing sambas and the sound was piped to the more remote areas; there was no dancing that I noticed.

It was fairly busy. Plenty of customers were eating large meals or snacks but there was no expectation that the customers should eat. The thing which I like about most live music I have heard here is that the volume is reasonable, not the ear-splitting high volume that is everywhere in Europe.  Some listened attentively while other groups chatted without raising their voices. The musicians accept that they are not giving a concert and that all the customers are not expected to applaud every song. It makes the whole evening very pleasant and relaxing.

So, I hear you ask, what was that bit about the antiques shop?  Well the decor is something that Salvador Dalí or Federico Fellini might have come up with.  The walls were full of religious icons, pictures, statues and other paraphernalia; at least the staff were not dressed as monks and nuns.  During the day the tables and chairs are moved and the premises open as an antiques shop with all the decorations for sale.  I did find it a little disconcerting being so decadent under a life-sized portrait of a nun!  Sadly I did not bring my camera but the next article will have some pictures of its similar sister establishments in the same street.

PS
Pics will appear within 24 hours, I promise!
PPS
They are in place and I have also added pics to the two previous articles.

On Sunday morning we drove around the area. Their house is on a secluded hill on a large estate similar to a Spanish  urbanisación. Eventually there will be around 120 houses. The neighbours seem to be exclusively bankers and senior judges.  Somehow the President of the Appeal Court loses some of his majesty when you meet him on a weekend morning wearing a pair of jeans and nothing else.  It is a very natural wooded area full of wildlife and plants. Lourdes is a keen gardener and has a magnificent collection including a black orchid.

We stopped for lunch in the shadow of the Pedra Azul which is a rock with a sheer face of 600 metres.  The whole area is a State Park and is well developed for tourism.  They promote all sorts of local food and agricultural products and handicrafts as well as the environment. We had an excellent lunch in an Italian restaurant.

After lunch we returned home for a week of penance, eating lettuce and painting the kitchen.

Bossa Nova This year is the 50th anniversary of the Bossa Nova and the City of Vitória held a free four day festival in celebration.  On the final night we listened to Roberto Menescal and  his partner of 20 years Wanda Sá. Menescal, along with people such as Tom Jobim, Carlos Lyra, Herbie Mann, Charlie Byrd and Stan Getz did much to popularise João Gilberto’s new style of music in the 1960s.  We really enjoyed the concert in spite of the appalling acoustics in a converted warehouse theatre in the middle of the docks. There was a ship moored 20 metres away where the crew were also enjoying the music.

Rio de Janeiro

The next report will be from Rio where we will spend a long weekend with Flavia’s Uncle.  His suggestion for an exciting tourist activity is to fill an old camera case with rocks and hang it off your shoulder, then stuff a wallet with Monopoly money and put it in your back pocket. Now go for a stroll along the beachfront and then tell the world how you were mugged.

Delay in Posting new reports

It has been a bit erratic recently. I was trying to organise some more photos but they do take a lot of time to get right. I have published the last two or three reports without any photos but will soon add some so keep watching.

Mosquitoes and the diseases they cause. Malaria in the North and dengue fever are a major problem here. The authorities are fighting them but the battle is far from won. I am preparing an article on this subject.

Inter-city highways Some are very good, others are terrible! We have been thinking about driving to Bahía but have been put off by a friend describing badly pot-holed roads and traffic zig-zagging in every direction trying to find a safe path. There was a truck driver on the TV proudly showing his 50 year old truck with almost no suspension, bald tires and all sorts of other problems. He claimed he did a 4000 km round trip in 4 days driving 20 hours a day and used amphetimines to stay wake.

Crime and the fear of crime.  So far I have not had any problems at all but the constant warnings and TV reports of violence are depressing.

Pavements Even in the nice areas the pavements are often non-existent or in very poor condition in a way very similar to Spain. It must make life for mothers with young children and the handicapped very difficult.

Beggars They are not as bad as in India and Indochina and are rarely aggressive.  At most red traffic lights a beggar will approach and remind you that Brazil has not completely left the third world behind.

Street advertising Loudspeaker vans tour the streets shouting about the wonderful things for sale in the supermarket. I have even seen a shopkeeper stand outside his shop with a microphone haranguing the passers by.

Slow broadband internet The connection here is about 10% of what I get in Spain and is nearly double the price. Of course we complain about it in Spain as well.

Bumpy cycle track There is a cycle track along the beach and when it is finished will be 7.5km long. Brilliant! The snag is that the surface is a bumpy brick which slows you down and rattles your teeth. Many cyclists prefer to use the road or the pavement.

Unreliable tradesmen Flavia has a number of jobs recently completed or in progress involving an electrician, new curtains, some tiling, a carpenter, a water leak from a neighbouring apartment  and the apartment block telephone system. In every case appointments have been broken and quite simple jobs take several weeks, numerous visits and phone calls and a lot of frustration.

Food They sell many of the cheeses you find in Europe but the only interesting one I have tasted was in a  good Italian restaurant. There is what they call cheddar which is orange and bears little relationship to the original English product. Other cheeses I have tried have been a bit dry and chalky with not much flavour. Maybe they should import some Stinking Bishop They don’t sell Marmite, loose tea, ginger nuts, mint sauce, custard and many other things necessary in the life of an Englishman.

You can tell from the last couple of items that I was struggling to find ten things that I do not like here.

There are not many bars in the conventional sense. Most of the self-service places are midday only. In the evening they open as a cross between bars and restaurants. Flavia says that Brazilians do not drink while they eat. They certainly eat while they drink! There is always a food menu and quite substantial portions of food available; these are put in the middle of the table and everyone shares the meal. The food is often fried and is the sort of thing you can easily stab with a fork. It is mostly a bit unhealthy for my taste.

Serving a customer

The other sort of restaurant is churrasco which is the Brazilian barbecue. Their appetite for meat in general and beef in particular is only challenged by the Argentinian asado. The film clip of the home churrasco below gives you an idea of the scale.

In a churrasco restaurant you usually pay a fixed amount to eat. There will be a generous salad bar and fruits and sweet things for dessert. Mostly the customers eat meat, lots of it! The waiters will bring a selection of chicken hearts, sausages, chicken wings to stimulate your appetite. Later he will bring a large skewer about a metre long on which half a dozen joints will have been impaled and roasted. You point to the joint that takes your fancy and he will cut a few thin slices which you take with a pair of tongs. The meat is usually very good quality with no seasoning or marinade apart from salt.
There is a sort of unofficial rationing in that the waiters with skewers work their way around the room so you eat at the speed they serve you. They are very generous so it is only the Homer Simpsons of this world that will worry about it. Very often there is a self-service section of the restaurant and the remainders of the joints which are less than perfect will be served there.

Like feijoada and the beach, churrasco is part of the heart and soul of Brazilians.  I am still trying to work out how most of them look remarkably fit and slim!

Hmm … I seem to becoming fixated on food

Feijoada is prepared with black turtle beans, with a variety of salted pork and beef products such as salted pork trimmings (ears, tail, feet), bacon, smoked pork ribs, at least two types of smoked sausage and jerked beef (loin and tongue). It is prepared over slow fire in a thick clay pot. The final dish has the beans and meat pieces barely covered by a dark purplish-brown broth.

The taste is strong, moderately salty but not spicy, dominated by the flavors of black bean and meat stew. The dish is served with rice, collard greens and slices of orange. It is very good indeed. Typically in restaurants they will serve six or eight different pots each with a different type of meat so that each person can ensure his favourite and avoid his dislikes. At home a single pot with a selection of the varieties of meat is usually prepared.

On Saturday we were invited to lunch at the Novotel Hotel which has the reputation of doing the best feijoada in town. Our hosts were Lourdes, a colleague of Flavia and her husband Marçal who is a prosecutor in the Appeal Court.

The other guests were Lourdes´ sister and brother-in-law. We started with drinks and tapas in the lounge and then moved into the restaurant for the serious eating.

As usual I disgraced myself in the “eat until you drop” fixed price buffet. There was a lot of salad and healthy stuff which I ignored in favour of calories and cholestrol. After my second helping there was no room for the fruit and deserts. I had managed to lose a second kilo this week but I am afraid all the good work was undone. Fortunately Flavia was nearly as bad so my edge in our competitive weight loss campaign was not too badly damaged. Feijoada is a wonderful dish but not to be eaten too often!

One of the highlights of the restaurant was a trio of guitar, bandolin and tambourine who were playng delightful soft Brazilian music. It was a perfect background in a busy room.

After lunch we wandered up the coast for around 100km. It is much more the Brazil I was expecting. Miles of beaches, beach bars, surfers, para-surfing, beach football and general fun. There were plenty of much poorer people than in Vitória but not much sign of real povery. We found a cheap hotel, had a very light supper and plenty of beer and then bed.

In the morning it was cold (around 22C) and windy with patches of rain, it was not busy on the beaches but the restuarants were thriving. We tried to get a cruise around the bay but the afternoon cruise was cancelled. it was the captain’s birthday and he was having a party on board. He was already a bit tipsy and offered to include us in the party with no promises about when we would return. Regretfully we watched them sail off with a mountain of beer and churrasco.

We stopped in Nova Almeida on the way back. It is a nice beach resort with a beautiful colonial church dating back to 1580.

It was a great weekend and now we must spend the week eating lettuce

More large meals!

So has she but I will not tell you how much. We both enjoy eating and drinking and have been taking less exercise than we should.  Just the wedding last week must have added a kilo. Things must change! The start of the Tour de France has inspired me. Put your money on Oscar Freire to win the points competition.

In fact I have already started and have lost a kilo. No alcohol on at least three days per week and a lot less food. In theory we walk around 6 km every evening. In practice we usually do it two or three times a week. I will try to get that up to six times a week. Flavia’s daughter Jana has lent me her bike and my first three rides have been 6, 9 and 12 km. I will increase that  to 20km most days.

The bike is a fetching shade of pink. As Brazilians are so keen on everything being colour co-ordinated I think I will probably have to buy some matching shorts and top like this. Maybe I should go for the hat and sun glasses too. The bike will be very good exercise as half the gears do not work and it is a bit small for me and is very hard work.

The problem is the Brazilian food. It is wonderful, I love it!  It is also high meat content, high fat and high calorie.  It is too much to expect me to show self-restraint when I go to an Aladdin’s Cave of a self-service restaurant. There are so many new things to try and different  ways of preparing them. And, of course, lots of European dishes to show Flavia. It is a shame that fruit and salad take so much time to clean here.